GRAHAM A.PAVEY GARDEN and LANDSCAPE DESIGN Plants and Planting Home Gardens Front Gardens The Process Garden Design days Books Talks Photos(2008) Prices Links Producing a viable planting scheme takes some care and knowledge of the plants being used. The main mistake the amateur makes is to plant plants which are too large for the allocated space - their spread being more important than their height. Now, lets look at building up a planting scheme from scratch; Firstly position the structural plants. These, in general, are the evergreens, but anything which maintains a presence in the winter can be regarded as structural. Plants with no structure are generally herbaceous perennials (but don't make the mistake of thinking all herbaceous perennials have no structure); a whole planting of these (an herbaceous border) will generally be more colourful in the height of summer but will leave stretches of bare soil in the winter. As the term suggests these structural plants are the building blocks of the scheme and should be situated where they can provide the best support: So place the first ones at key points, like corners and then fill in ensuring that you have approximately one third structural in the back garden and two thirds in the front, or somewhere else used extensively during the colder months. Although structural plants are important, too many can turn the garden into a "supermarket" car park. Also, deciduous plants are, in general, more colourful then evergreen ones.   Evergreens and structural plants have been carefully placed in this garden showing how best to use them Once the structural plants have been positioned then look to fill up the spaces in between. Although it is not essential to have the taller ones at the back coming down to ground cover edging plants, it makes sense to have general flow from back down to front. Choose a season that the bed is going to be at its very best; there will still be colour through the season but the crescendo should be in these months. Your spring and winter beds should be near the house or somewhere you can guarantee they will be seen in that season. NOTE: Before selecting a plant ensure it will grow in the prevailing conditions (soil type, aspect) and that it is the right height and spread for the position where is to grow. Now we have a basic design we can look at adding some style. Although colour is important in a scheme, the eye relates well to a combination of shapes and textures and, where colour if is often fleeting, these characteristics are more long-lasting. Lets look at the different shapes: Round or bun-shape: A stabilising and solid shape, this can be achieved with plants like Buxus sempervirens (clipped to keep in out clipping but will need replacing after a few years as it uses its shape). In the photo right this shape is contributed by Chamaecyparis lawsoniana “Tamariscifolia” (although, in general, conifers are not good in mixed planting schemes) Fastigiate or upright. These will provide the vertical lines and can be achieved with an upright conifer like Taxus baccata "Fastigiata" or Delphiniums. Posts of a pergola or the trunk of a tree could also be used. Lupins, left, are a good choice for an acid soil although the flowers are only fleeting.     Feathery, textured or "woofly " shapes. These are often the most interesting plants and come in a wide range from sage (Salvia officinalis) with its woolly textured leaves to Acer palmatum "Dissectum" with its feathery foliage. Having said that these are often the most attractive, on their own they lack impact and need the other shapes to bring out their best.           Horizontal. This can be achieved using groundcover plants (be careful as this term is often used to describe some garden monsters) or plants with tiered branches like Cornus controversa "Variegata" or Viburnum plicatum "Mariesii".                 Spiky. Of all the shapes this can have the most impact. It can be used to add drama and excitement to a scheme. But be careful as too many in one scheme can change the whole character of the area and give it a more mediterranean feel. This is fine if that is what you are aiming to achieve but our English landscape consists of more rounded feathery shapes. Use irises, phormiums, cordylines or grasses.                   It is possible to come up with an infinite number of shapes but selecting from the ones I have listed feel is adequate. One further shape that hasn't been mentioned however is more the shape of leaf than that of the overall plant and that is anything with a large round leaf. Plants like bergenias, hostas, brunneras and catalpas have the talent to bring out the best in their neighbours and, used in small groups, can enhance any display. In long borders evenly space groups of bergenias, brunneras or hostas along the edge.         CENTER> Email: Graham@grahamapavey.co.uk Graham A.Pavey Garden and Landscape Design 23 Grove Place Bedford Beds MK40 3JJ Telephone: 01234 269169 links